Small Wave Humblings pt. 2

This was fun trying different boards and different fin set ups. 

I found out that I liked the black railed board the best. 

It's dimensions are in the vid. I'm always interested in finding 

a board that flies in little waves and has no drag. I can't say I love 

this footage but it's cool to watch and from it coach myself. What I took away

from this was to move my arms less and straighten my back a little more. I 

am still very interested in getting better. 

As for the ending, I love the way this guy surfs but his taste is questionable. 

hahahahaha 

BG

Old boards, photos, memories

This is a 6'2 6 channel shaped by Peter Benjamin. It worked incredible. I think this is seaside 1987-88. I used to surf there everyday I was home.
I took down Kong in Newcastle on this puppy with a 9 in the last 30 seconds of the quarters. It was always so fun to beat Kong cause he was so cocky and never said hi to any of us. Hahaha
This board is at my bro Gilles' restaurant Calypso in Leucadia and was painted by John Glomb my long time friend and mentor when I was a grom.

I love the blues

I asked this old dude to play me some howling wolf and he went into "going back to Kansas city." I'm guessing there was a girl there. Can't see many other reasons other than family. He had two little amps one for the mike and one for the strat. Old strat too. He seemed happy to oblige. I love to throw a little money to the street musicians. They make life so random, beautiful, and sweet.

Small Wave Humblings: very good for you...

   Here is my first little video blog post. I've decided to do this because I have a ton of friends and fans that want to know what kind of board a man rides in different conditions. All you ever hear about is what kids ride: My goal in this 2 part series is to: learn, experiment with different boards and fin set ups, and ultimately find a small wave quiver. The waves usually suck around here, however, small, crappy waves are extremely challenging, keep you tuned and reflexes sharp. I feel like I'm surfing ok in this footage but there is nothing to humble one more than to watch oneself surf... sheesh.

   Also, for anyone who knows me, I love to imitate different voices and accents hence the Japanese English title... 

take care and feel free to comment as I'm interested in what works for others in different conditions.  BG

Small Wave Humblings from bradgerr on Vimeo.

Doozy

Here's a doozy of a board. 6'3 x 18 3/4 x 2 5/16 kustom order for the kid. Feels like a double concave but I need to talk with Chris to define the bottom correctly.
Fins are a Timmy Patterson template made of G-10 material. The trailing fin is a touch smaller then the leading fins.
The fins are concaved and I've rode the same fins for 3 years in all sizes of waves in several boards. LOVE THESE BAD BOYS! They are very stiff with a slight flex at the tip, drivey and responsive. G-10: i believe is a hundred layers of glass pressed and cooked. Some military shit. The glass on thes puppy's is at a 45 degree angle. Meaning flex and no twist.
Rode this last week on that second swell at an overhead
right and just loved the drive and carry it had. The Rp shape allows it to turn tight in the pocket too. This board is simply magic. I've ridden her in Bali on lefts and she's just as responsive.
Joy is the only word that works here. Thanks again Chris. I really appreciateit bud.

Experimenting is fun

I love to mix things up but usually don't get out of the water to change things up during a session...Today I rode some 2-3 ft fun little right point waves. I changed my board twice and fin set up 5 times. Here's my quick feedback: 1. Black rail board is called the Ocean Avenger model: double bump swallow 5'8" x 19 1/2 x 2 5/16 Quad with 5 boxes. Front fins: EA tech flex, back fins: just say 375 on them, and i tried the regular size knubster, ( 5th fin, don't know measurements of it yet) Felt ok but a little limiting in the lack of size and power. Rode 3-4 waves.
2. Same board without knubster: felt freed up and faster with less drag. I'm
Stoked on the speed but still not totally comfortable off the top on the quad set up. Rode 6-7 waves.
3. Change board: hand shape 5'8 x19 3/4 x 2 3/16 wide tail swallow. Front fins: EA standard, back fins, random tow fins, and small knubster as 5th fin. Same kind thing as above, felt ok but a little slow with the wave size. Like 5th fin wasn't necessary.
4. Same board as above without knubster. Much faster and free feeling. Weird off the top though which seems to be the case, at least with me... Maybe it's just too wide in the tail for tight radius turning or I need to brute force it a bit? I don't know yet. Rode 4-5 waves
5. Same board as above change rear fins to 375's. Board felt a little better and held a touch more. Rode 5-6 waves.
Boards are made by Chris Christenson and all of the fins except one are Futures. One of the knubsters is an fcs.

Tried this today

Been riding a few different quads lately but this is the first time I threw the knubster in. Surf was 3-4 glassy bowls.
It seemed to hold better and was still fast. I'm def intrigued