Surfboards are like Golf clubs

The footy is from a couple of different sessions at one of my favorite places to surf near home.
I'm riding a few different boards but they all have the same dims.
All boards shaped by my friend Chris Christenson.
I'm 5'11 x 175 lbs or so, I think that's 78 kilos or 11 1/2 stone? Someone correct me if I'm wrong on that because I haven't a scale here.
3 of the boards are 6'0 x 19 x 2 5/16  Op 3 model squash tail
Except the red railed board, which is a whopping 6'2 x 18 3/4 x 2 3/8 Op2 model swallow tail.
In case you hadn't noticed this is considered a big board these days. hahaha...
The black railed board worked the best because it was the right board for the size of waves.
On the bigger stuff I would've liked to try a 6'1 x 18 7/8 x 2 1/4 with a pulled in squash.(narrower tail block) I felt like I was losing grip on the wave at times and you can see it in the footage. Which leads me to believe I had too much volume. It's a delicate balance because the waves had power but the faces were pretty flat.
So, a touch thinner and narrower might've done the trick? Ya never know unless the swell lasts and you've got a half dozen doozy's on the sand. yeeww!! the good ol days. hahaha
Surfboards are like golf clubs, in this case, it was like I had three 8 irons, a 6 iron and no 7 iron.
If one can afford it, I recommend having more than a couple of boards.
The right board for the conditions can make all the difference in fun. The tricky part just like golf
is, which one will work best for the conditions? One must choose wisely... especially at places that
are a hassle to come in, go out, or both. This is where a trusted friend who is a good surfer can help.
It's equally important to find out what the pro's are using. Find a pro that is built similar to you and see what he or she is riding. Then realistically assess your level and widen up the board.  If you are really good widen just a little, if you are intermediate widen more. This is why it's so important to talk with the shaper or pro that is helping you with your order or purchase (if the board is stock or used)
I consult with Chris on every board. The shaper is getting constant feedback from other surfers and usually knows what works in what conditions. He is also in good communication with his sales person.
FYI, the sales person is usually a very good surfer too.
I've got a bit of time off so I'm heading into the jungle to try a new quiver of quads... stoked.

Alright take it easy and let me know what you guys are riding or if these helped you in anyway. I'm always curious to know what works for different people in different locales and conditions.

Gerr

Surfer Mag Article on Coaching

CLICK HERE to read the article! Enjoy!

My Hawaii Quiver Winter 1993-1994

Got a funny memory about the 10 footer at Waimea with Frankenreiter, absolutely loved the 7'5 out at Pipe, and rode the 6'8 a bunch. Wish I still had these babies, this is the only photo i have of this quiver. I only have the 7'5 so if anyone has one of these I would be stoked to buy back.

One of my favorites

This is my little home away from home. I'm riding 3 different boards in the footage. All shaped by my boy Chris Christenson: First one is an OP3- 6'0 x 18 3/4 squash, the all white one is a hand shape 6'1 x 18 3/4 round pin, and the black railed board is a OP2- 6'1 x 18 3/4 squash.

Professional Surfing Coach

http://vimeo.com/16881396 

I like this thing that vice spain did on my new career. :-)

Former Number One

Ever since I finished the 1991 season on the Asp world tour I have been labeled a former number 2 surfer and I've been fine with that... Sort of... I don't see myself as bitter or all weird because I didn't win the world title... guess that's not for me to decide hahaha. Ok at least I don't feel weird. Anyway, I was watching tennis with bobby martinez the other day (not) and heard the commentator talking about a former number one player. So I started asking how that worked and I came to find that if a player held the number one spot at any time in his or her career than they were forever labeled a former number one. Mmmm that seemed cool to me because it was a fact. The other day I was cleaning a storage unit and found the 1991 ratings sheet. Haha proof! I am a former number one! Seems I should know that but the number 2 was seemingly beaten into me I guess.
So for all those surfers that held the number one spot, even for a week, give yourself the credit man!
Now I got to find the 1986 ratings sheet.

Ton o fun

I had a lot of fun today on a cool little right not too far from the homestead.
I rode the board on the right first. 5'8 x 20 x 2 3/16 its the op3 model cutdown I changed the front fins out from the Simon's I rode yesterday. I got them in Oz last month, they are Haden shapes, they were a touch smaller which made the board feel lil looser. I mean 20" wide is pretty extreme for me Anyway then i switched to the 5 finner. Which is hand shape. Which is same size and thickness only a quarter inch narrower at 19 3/4. Crazy how much more control I had. I really had a ton o fun on that board today! The 5th fin (knob) is actually called "the knub" or "knubster" works good with the quad set up for wider tails.

Small Wave Humblings pt. 2

This was fun trying different boards and different fin set ups. 

I found out that I liked the black railed board the best. 

It's dimensions are in the vid. I'm always interested in finding 

a board that flies in little waves and has no drag. I can't say I love 

this footage but it's cool to watch and from it coach myself. What I took away

from this was to move my arms less and straighten my back a little more. I 

am still very interested in getting better. 

As for the ending, I love the way this guy surfs but his taste is questionable. 

hahahahaha 

BG

Old boards, photos, memories

This is a 6'2 6 channel shaped by Peter Benjamin. It worked incredible. I think this is seaside 1987-88. I used to surf there everyday I was home.
I took down Kong in Newcastle on this puppy with a 9 in the last 30 seconds of the quarters. It was always so fun to beat Kong cause he was so cocky and never said hi to any of us. Hahaha
This board is at my bro Gilles' restaurant Calypso in Leucadia and was painted by John Glomb my long time friend and mentor when I was a grom.

I love the blues

I asked this old dude to play me some howling wolf and he went into "going back to Kansas city." I'm guessing there was a girl there. Can't see many other reasons other than family. He had two little amps one for the mike and one for the strat. Old strat too. He seemed happy to oblige. I love to throw a little money to the street musicians. They make life so random, beautiful, and sweet.

Small Wave Humblings: very good for you...

   Here is my first little video blog post. I've decided to do this because I have a ton of friends and fans that want to know what kind of board a man rides in different conditions. All you ever hear about is what kids ride: My goal in this 2 part series is to: learn, experiment with different boards and fin set ups, and ultimately find a small wave quiver. The waves usually suck around here, however, small, crappy waves are extremely challenging, keep you tuned and reflexes sharp. I feel like I'm surfing ok in this footage but there is nothing to humble one more than to watch oneself surf... sheesh.

   Also, for anyone who knows me, I love to imitate different voices and accents hence the Japanese English title... 

take care and feel free to comment as I'm interested in what works for others in different conditions.  BG

Small Wave Humblings from bradgerr on Vimeo.

Doozy

Here's a doozy of a board. 6'3 x 18 3/4 x 2 5/16 kustom order for the kid. Feels like a double concave but I need to talk with Chris to define the bottom correctly.
Fins are a Timmy Patterson template made of G-10 material. The trailing fin is a touch smaller then the leading fins.
The fins are concaved and I've rode the same fins for 3 years in all sizes of waves in several boards. LOVE THESE BAD BOYS! They are very stiff with a slight flex at the tip, drivey and responsive. G-10: i believe is a hundred layers of glass pressed and cooked. Some military shit. The glass on thes puppy's is at a 45 degree angle. Meaning flex and no twist.
Rode this last week on that second swell at an overhead
right and just loved the drive and carry it had. The Rp shape allows it to turn tight in the pocket too. This board is simply magic. I've ridden her in Bali on lefts and she's just as responsive.
Joy is the only word that works here. Thanks again Chris. I really appreciateit bud.

Experimenting is fun

I love to mix things up but usually don't get out of the water to change things up during a session...Today I rode some 2-3 ft fun little right point waves. I changed my board twice and fin set up 5 times. Here's my quick feedback: 1. Black rail board is called the Ocean Avenger model: double bump swallow 5'8" x 19 1/2 x 2 5/16 Quad with 5 boxes. Front fins: EA tech flex, back fins: just say 375 on them, and i tried the regular size knubster, ( 5th fin, don't know measurements of it yet) Felt ok but a little limiting in the lack of size and power. Rode 3-4 waves.
2. Same board without knubster: felt freed up and faster with less drag. I'm
Stoked on the speed but still not totally comfortable off the top on the quad set up. Rode 6-7 waves.
3. Change board: hand shape 5'8 x19 3/4 x 2 3/16 wide tail swallow. Front fins: EA standard, back fins, random tow fins, and small knubster as 5th fin. Same kind thing as above, felt ok but a little slow with the wave size. Like 5th fin wasn't necessary.
4. Same board as above without knubster. Much faster and free feeling. Weird off the top though which seems to be the case, at least with me... Maybe it's just too wide in the tail for tight radius turning or I need to brute force it a bit? I don't know yet. Rode 4-5 waves
5. Same board as above change rear fins to 375's. Board felt a little better and held a touch more. Rode 5-6 waves.
Boards are made by Chris Christenson and all of the fins except one are Futures. One of the knubsters is an fcs.