Surfboards are like Golf clubs

The footy is from a couple of different sessions at one of my favorite places to surf near home.
I'm riding a few different boards but they all have the same dims.
All boards shaped by my friend Chris Christenson.
I'm 5'11 x 175 lbs or so, I think that's 78 kilos or 11 1/2 stone? Someone correct me if I'm wrong on that because I haven't a scale here.
3 of the boards are 6'0 x 19 x 2 5/16  Op 3 model squash tail
Except the red railed board, which is a whopping 6'2 x 18 3/4 x 2 3/8 Op2 model swallow tail.
In case you hadn't noticed this is considered a big board these days. hahaha...
The black railed board worked the best because it was the right board for the size of waves.
On the bigger stuff I would've liked to try a 6'1 x 18 7/8 x 2 1/4 with a pulled in squash.(narrower tail block) I felt like I was losing grip on the wave at times and you can see it in the footage. Which leads me to believe I had too much volume. It's a delicate balance because the waves had power but the faces were pretty flat.
So, a touch thinner and narrower might've done the trick? Ya never know unless the swell lasts and you've got a half dozen doozy's on the sand. yeeww!! the good ol days. hahaha
Surfboards are like golf clubs, in this case, it was like I had three 8 irons, a 6 iron and no 7 iron.
If one can afford it, I recommend having more than a couple of boards.
The right board for the conditions can make all the difference in fun. The tricky part just like golf
is, which one will work best for the conditions? One must choose wisely... especially at places that
are a hassle to come in, go out, or both. This is where a trusted friend who is a good surfer can help.
It's equally important to find out what the pro's are using. Find a pro that is built similar to you and see what he or she is riding. Then realistically assess your level and widen up the board.  If you are really good widen just a little, if you are intermediate widen more. This is why it's so important to talk with the shaper or pro that is helping you with your order or purchase (if the board is stock or used)
I consult with Chris on every board. The shaper is getting constant feedback from other surfers and usually knows what works in what conditions. He is also in good communication with his sales person.
FYI, the sales person is usually a very good surfer too.
I've got a bit of time off so I'm heading into the jungle to try a new quiver of quads... stoked.

Alright take it easy and let me know what you guys are riding or if these helped you in anyway. I'm always curious to know what works for different people in different locales and conditions.

Gerr

Surfer Mag Article on Coaching

CLICK HERE to read the article! Enjoy!

My Hawaii Quiver Winter 1993-1994

Got a funny memory about the 10 footer at Waimea with Frankenreiter, absolutely loved the 7'5 out at Pipe, and rode the 6'8 a bunch. Wish I still had these babies, this is the only photo i have of this quiver. I only have the 7'5 so if anyone has one of these I would be stoked to buy back.

One of my favorites

This is my little home away from home. I'm riding 3 different boards in the footage. All shaped by my boy Chris Christenson: First one is an OP3- 6'0 x 18 3/4 squash, the all white one is a hand shape 6'1 x 18 3/4 round pin, and the black railed board is a OP2- 6'1 x 18 3/4 squash.

Professional Surfing Coach

http://vimeo.com/16881396 

I like this thing that vice spain did on my new career. :-)

Former Number One

Ever since I finished the 1991 season on the Asp world tour I have been labeled a former number 2 surfer and I've been fine with that... Sort of... I don't see myself as bitter or all weird because I didn't win the world title... guess that's not for me to decide hahaha. Ok at least I don't feel weird. Anyway, I was watching tennis with bobby martinez the other day (not) and heard the commentator talking about a former number one player. So I started asking how that worked and I came to find that if a player held the number one spot at any time in his or her career than they were forever labeled a former number one. Mmmm that seemed cool to me because it was a fact. The other day I was cleaning a storage unit and found the 1991 ratings sheet. Haha proof! I am a former number one! Seems I should know that but the number 2 was seemingly beaten into me I guess.
So for all those surfers that held the number one spot, even for a week, give yourself the credit man!
Now I got to find the 1986 ratings sheet.

Ton o fun

I had a lot of fun today on a cool little right not too far from the homestead.
I rode the board on the right first. 5'8 x 20 x 2 3/16 its the op3 model cutdown I changed the front fins out from the Simon's I rode yesterday. I got them in Oz last month, they are Haden shapes, they were a touch smaller which made the board feel lil looser. I mean 20" wide is pretty extreme for me Anyway then i switched to the 5 finner. Which is hand shape. Which is same size and thickness only a quarter inch narrower at 19 3/4. Crazy how much more control I had. I really had a ton o fun on that board today! The 5th fin (knob) is actually called "the knub" or "knubster" works good with the quad set up for wider tails.