The footy is from a couple of different sessions at one of my favorite places to surf near home.
I'm riding a few different boards but they all have the same dims.
All boards shaped by my friend Chris Christenson.
I'm 5'11 x 175 lbs or so, I think that's 78 kilos or 11 1/2 stone? Someone correct me if I'm wrong on that because I haven't a scale here.
3 of the boards are 6'0 x 19 x 2 5/16 Op 3 model squash tail
Except the red railed board, which is a whopping 6'2 x 18 3/4 x 2 3/8 Op2 model swallow tail.
In case you hadn't noticed this is considered a big board these days. hahaha...
The black railed board worked the best because it was the right board for the size of waves.
On the bigger stuff I would've liked to try a 6'1 x 18 7/8 x 2 1/4 with a pulled in squash.(narrower tail block) I felt like I was losing grip on the wave at times and you can see it in the footage. Which leads me to believe I had too much volume. It's a delicate balance because the waves had power but the faces were pretty flat.
So, a touch thinner and narrower might've done the trick? Ya never know unless the swell lasts and you've got a half dozen doozy's on the sand. yeeww!! the good ol days. hahaha
Surfboards are like golf clubs, in this case, it was like I had three 8 irons, a 6 iron and no 7 iron.
If one can afford it, I recommend having more than a couple of boards.
The right board for the conditions can make all the difference in fun. The tricky part just like golf
is, which one will work best for the conditions? One must choose wisely... especially at places that
are a hassle to come in, go out, or both. This is where a trusted friend who is a good surfer can help.
It's equally important to find out what the pro's are using. Find a pro that is built similar to you and see what he or she is riding. Then realistically assess your level and widen up the board. If you are really good widen just a little, if you are intermediate widen more. This is why it's so important to talk with the shaper or pro that is helping you with your order or purchase (if the board is stock or used)
I consult with Chris on every board. The shaper is getting constant feedback from other surfers and usually knows what works in what conditions. He is also in good communication with his sales person.
FYI, the sales person is usually a very good surfer too.
I've got a bit of time off so I'm heading into the jungle to try a new quiver of quads... stoked.
Alright take it easy and let me know what you guys are riding or if these helped you in anyway. I'm always curious to know what works for different people in different locales and conditions.